maanantai 22. lokakuuta 2012

Robe à la Turque

Current project, Robe à la Turque:
 robe a la turque quick sketch
I was planning on the same frosty pink I used for the last Rococo corset, but I also have some mint green taffeta... so, as I couldn't decide, I thought that I'd just make a quick one for Halloween, as I had the cheap dark red taffeta I failed to use last Halloween and decide on the "real" 18th century ball gown later.
 Robe a la Turque WIP

Rococo Corset - 18th Century Stays

Needed a nice pair of 18th Century Stays, and decided on a pretty frosty pink to make something really Marie Antoinetteish.

18th Century Stays 01


18th Century Stays 02
18th Century Stays 03

 18th Century Stays 04
You wish.
I had a piece of "Midnight Pastoral" fabric by Alexander Henry, and so another piece of whimsical clothing was born instead of historical accuracy.

18th Century Stays 05
Yay for 17th century drunk corpses?
I also used another toile by Laura Ashley as lining:
18th Century Stays 06
18th Century Stays 07
18th Century Stays 08 It is wearable now, to finish the corset the lower edge needs binding but I'll leave that to a day I want to get frustrated...

1912 "Titanic" Corset

This one was ready before deadline, but I had such a busy summer I didn't get to update blog.
Here's some photos of the finished Corset for Sew Along!
The corset is worn over a lovely tunic I found at a second hand shop and the Art Nouveau (or Jugend, as it is know around here) style fireplace in the background is actually from 1911!
Titanic corset side
Titanic corset front
Found some lovely turquoise lace and also used similar color for flossing (decorative stitching in the end of the boning)
Unfortunately, didn't get to go or arrange any "Titanic" events either, but "The Night to Remember" was on TV in the week Titanic sank 100 years ago, so I entertained myself by watching it dressed as Edwardian as I could gather from my wardrobe.


tiistai 14. helmikuuta 2012

1911 corset sew along - Almost Finished!

Trimming and decorating to do! That's the tricky part... Should I just trim it with the same white coutil? Or use other colour binding? I really want to try out flossing it as well, so should I use matching thread and bias trim?
1911 Titanic corset WIP

sunnuntai 12. helmikuuta 2012

1911 Corset Sew Along - Bone Channels

Progress!

1911Corset_011

Bone channels. And a stripey glove, my dog likes to play catch with them, by herself.

1911Corset_013

I'm missing the side table thing on the sewing machine :( such unhappy thing to sew long, straight lines...

1911Corset_014

I'm sewing with my sister's machine, with a macgyver fix

1911Corset_016

Grommet holes;
I don't have an awl, and punching holes with scissors would cut the fabric - not desirable - so instead I use a coulpe of knitting needles. Punching a hole with thin one and widening it with bigger one.

1911Corset_017

Corset so far, bones seems they might be too short, but I'll see that when fitting to myself.

tiistai 31. tammikuuta 2012

1911 corset progress and Midshipmen

1911 Corset Sew Along: I left the just sewn pieces of the final corset on the ironing board. Now, there was a slight brown pawn print on it. D:

Damn you, roomie's cat!

So I had to wash it gently, I suppose I also need to wash the other piece to maintain the same strenght with the whole piece.
***
Photobucket

Otherwise, guess who will be dancing with the cadets the next five weeks x)

I saw an ad in the bulletin board in the groceries searching for ladies to attend to dancing class for cadets. It's quite fun to think about that you can't become an officer of armed forces without learning how to waltz...
Shyly approached them as I was a little late for the signing in (and have two left feet), I would have regretted more NOT using the opportunity to grope uniformed young men learn to dance, than the might be complete humiliation of myself.

I might need to sew myself a neat dancing gown... something simple and day wear worthy, yet nice enough not to feel out of place as I just don't feel like jeans and a tee while the boys will be in their uniforms.

perjantai 27. tammikuuta 2012

Cage Panier / Ribbon Pocket Hoops

Got a commission to make a truly different 18th century inspired pocket hoops, ivory ribbons for showing off rather than underpinnings.

cagehoops04

This was the starting out image of commission, idea of what was after
but I do not do metal work, (I don't stash forge & sledgehammers...) thus I had to try and make a sewed pocket hoops version of it.

cagehoops01
Here's my sketch of Pocket hoops made from ribbons.

Cage hoops making of

Materials used, metal boning would've been sturdier choice, but budget was issued by customer.

Cage hoops making of
Sateen covered boning.

Cage hoops making of

The amount of ribbons in the first design / sketch was not enough (as I suspected for synthetic whalebone), engineer had to step in and add two more.

cage hoops

The final ribbon pocket hoops.
Happy to have them finished, it was not as easy to make as the simple looking style would suggest, trying to get the bone channels stay under the sewing machine pedals while the excess ribbons out of the way.
These were made for show off, and for 18th century re-enactors I do not suggest trying this at home. They will not be strong enough to hold many layers of heavy petticoats.

keskiviikko 25. tammikuuta 2012

Frog Toilet paper roll hanger

Frogs and toilet paper rolls
Just a little decorating thing I sew, a hanger for toilet paper rolls, as there's not cupboard for them in our tiny toilet. The frogs fabric was in my stash, had found it in a flea market some time ago, I've also sewn grocery bags from it (I usually carry one folded in my purse to avoid having to get plastic bags for everything)

Yes, we have a black toilet. It was the ingeniosity of the last tenant to paint the walls in blackboard paint D:

1911 Corset Sew Along: the Fitting

First and last fitting of the muslin! I knew the 1910s style would be tricky on my body, and the first fitting shows it, to my surprise, not as bad as I thought.

corsets hapee
So, trying to get this 40''-20-30'' figure while you have very narrow rib cage, a starting beer belly, and a difference of nearly 40cm/15.5'' between your natural waist and hips circumference.
I must be insane.

1911Corset_005firstfit

I like the smooth line it makes, naturally there's a deep angle between waist and hips,
and so far this feels perhaps the most comfy corset.

1911Corset_006firstfit

The front side view shows why is it so comfortable. It should be flattening the belly, but at this stage, it does nothing to it, too much room for beer belly to stick out, enhanced even more by narrow ribs.

1911Corset_007firstfit

Sheer muslin and only a few plastic bones only emphazise the problem.
I know this era corset isn't supposed to emphasize the waist, but at this moment, it definately does and in no flattering way. The front lines must be re-drafted.

1911Corset_009
Front gore drafted smaller, the striped part will be cut out.

1911Corset_008scondtfit
Second fitting, much more smoother in the front, I see now that the bottom line flares a bit in the back, that should be easy to fix.
the "s-curve" is not wanted in this era corset, but my curved back will make curve in pretty much any corset.

We'll see, the final sturdier coutil and more (and sturdier boning) will do what can be done to make this figure even slightly "long and lean".

And talking of boning, the package from Sew Curvy arrived!
1911Corset_010

keskiviikko 11. tammikuuta 2012

1911 Sew Along - Mock-up

1911Corset_004

Looks neat and right size so far, the front edge/gore needs some defining, but I'll wait until the fitting to see if the front piece should be lenghtened, or the gore shortened.

Now, I need to find where I buried those bones...

Lacinstrip

Oh, also sew a lacing strip for mock-ups! Idea shamelessly stolen from Jo at Bridges on the Body.

Taking the dog out now, might continue sewing later today... And it's time to decide whether just use the white coutil as it is, or use fashion fabric to go with it, or dye it, or...

maanantai 9. tammikuuta 2012

1911 Corset Sew Along - The Pattern

I used the pattern in Nora Waugh: Corsets and Crinolines.

If I'd be ashamed easily, I would not share these photos... Not only are they taken with crappy camera phone to take them, the subjects are rather ugly.


Note that this is the way I do things when making garments for myself! It is by no way the "right" way of doing things, nor do I even dare to draft patterns free hand when making clothing for other people. I've just gotten quite accustomed to my body to know not to frustrate oneself in patterning.

1911Corset_001

First, I copied the pattern in the book. You could use the copier for rezising as well, but as I don't have patience for machines but love drawing, I used the grid/measure method.

1911Corset_002

I needed to add 0.5cm - 1/5'' to each piece - though I might need to add more to the hips, but I left that for the mock up to see exactly which pieces need more.
First piece (and side gores) I cut in half and added in the middle, but decided that with such a minor add I could just re-draw the addition to the edges.

Here's the pattern so far, on the muslin, with their edges rolling and waiting to be pinned.

1911Corset_003

Next it's the sewing of the mock up and first fitting!