perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011

Leopard underbust corset

Leopard print& pink sateen.

Modern underbust corset for my sister, hope she likes it and that it fits (and that she lets me take a picture, unsquishable dummy does not do justice to corsets) We both love animal prints :)

torstai 26. toukokuuta 2011

Embroidery

Photobucket I've found my inner needlecrafter... This is the latest one, made yesterday in about 5 hours. Embroidered stomacher. Used up all the green thread ends, but the use of different shades is quite appealing. Wish I would have had more shades of blue, I only had deep blue and turquoise :P

Photobucket This pocket I embroidered over a year ago... desing by me and used what ever stitches came to mind

Photobucket
This was a stomacher to my Pineapple costume, at 18th century masked ball last fall... I wish to write a journal about that, it must be my favorite costume :) Desing by me, this took maybe 16 hours for some of the threads were really thin...

Pet-en l'air


More pictures of the latest pet-en l'air. The full costume is found at etsy






I was stupid enough to try to construct the lining with more modern way, resulting in less than perfectly neat lining and need to ask less for it... next time I'll take the time to be more period, but also the price will add up.

lauantai 21. toukokuuta 2011

Pet-en l'air - French Robe

anyone know how to rotate pictures in blogger?
'
Still need to make the stomacher, add trims and iron some more. It is the same fabric that my first one, only different colour.



Will be on sale after finishing. Also, if I find a matching teal/blue fabric for the under skirt, I'll make that, but the pink is quite pretty too, matching the pink in the roses.

sunnuntai 8. toukokuuta 2011

Royal Navy Undress Coat

A project that's been in my mind since... umm... 2006? When I first saw Hornblower movies and became even more enthusiasted by the royal navy (before that it was more of modern navy thanks to JAG and Hot shots... no I mean top gun xD)

The uniforms are just adorable! IMO the 1795-1812 are the most appealing, but anything from the jacobeans to modern ones work for me ;D
Anyway, was bored, so this is how the uniform drafted from my size block looks in 1/4 scale... So, now I have the pattern ready if one day I'll have the money to get supplies :)

AND if you like to see awesome photos from the real coat of this style, once worn by Horatio Nelson himself: http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/nelson/viewObject.cfm?ID=UNI0024

Pocket Hoops

Today I made pocket hoops.


Pink Ruffled Pocket Hoops by ~rum-inspector on deviantART


Well, I had a pair before, but they were from the yard sale of the city theater, and as of theater costume they are ridiculously big and the sateen material have gone a little bad for all the wear...

These took 2 hours to make, pattern adjusted from Norah Waugh's Corsets&Crinolines, for my "wires" were of fixed size.

perjantai 6. toukokuuta 2011

Mock up of next project

.
why yes, dummy has breast implants... I'm afraid she'd need butt implant as well
I have a lot of fabric with stripes and flowers and thought about making a robe a'la francaice, but the print is more like what you would see in "Cranford" - sort of more 1830-60s than 1760s. I might not have any use for it, but perhaps when it's finished someone re-enacting US civil war or costuming Gone With the Wind might want it...
...but as you see first I'll need a victorian corset... should be interesting.

Mid 18th Century Stays - 16 hours of hard work




I did this mostly because I wanted to know exactly how time consuming it is, and for the hopes of helping to pay the rent on time.

Before, I've just done stays etc, and as the time spans from maybe an hour of sewing every week or so it's been hard to estimate. I also always forget to take work-in-progress photos.
My teachers did very strongly try to advise me to take them, when I only got in my project portfolio one photo of the fabric, and the next photo is the final garment :P Yea, wish sewing was so easy, from fabric magically turned into garment...

16 hours, for regular mid 18th century stays, with no alterations or extra research.
Here's details on where all the time went!

Supplies

- decorative over layer fabric, polyester 0,45m
- adhesive backing for over layer 0,45m
- middle layer, cotton 0,45m
- under layer, cotton/polyester 0,45m
- sewing thread
- Paper for patterns, 3x A3
- boning, 52 sturdy cable ties
- bias-cut tape, 1,88m
- multiple cups of coffee
(- piece of my finger)

Cost of my supplies (made my own bias tape; the inner layers fabric was a bargain because of slight mis-coloring) 0,45x19,90; 0,45x5,90; 0,45x2,00; 0,45x2,00; 52x0,10; 2.30 for thread
= 20,91

Cost of supplies if new, I don't know how much coutil is in finland, but from online store it was 20dollars/yard - so I suppose 20€ for a meter might be about it.
= 38,25 ... unless silk outer layer is used, 45€~55€


Time:

Research not counted as I've done these stays before, but it's usually counted in hours of searching the web, libraries, consulting fellow costumers etc. and also the running in fabric stores isn't counted either - which could also take hours

- Patterns 30min - I just copied most of them from old stays, only had to pattern the shoulder strap


- Ironing& cutting (ironing done during sewing is counted on sewing time; fabrics had already been washed/shrunked so that didn't add up time)
1½ hours


(my iron is reliable relic from the seventies...)

- Machine Sewing 4 hours


- Boning 1h 15min


- Hand Sewing 6½ hours


- Eyelets 2h 10min



Complete time: 15h 55min

I find it hard to ask money for my work, I am always putting myself down and never feeling that I or my works are good enough. I just sold most my old rococo gowns for button money.

Even for counting the same hourly wage as a waitress, this would be 192€+supplies, but sister very strongly noted that though waiting is hard work as well, the required expertee and dedication to this kind of work is in whole another league that should not be paid under 20€/h (which is what truck drivers of few years experience get... figure that)
so I'm shyly counting 20€ hourly fee, 320€ + supplies

("regular" seamstress work like mending and curtain sewing seems to be 20-30€/h, Bridal/atelier seamstresses it is hardly ever under 60€/h)

They are ON SALE AT ETSY

***
Oh, and the hazards of profession, I also lost a piece of my finger during the bone cutting... Would have needed a few stitches, but I don't have money to spend on emergency room fees... I'll just deal with the scars.

keskiviikko 4. toukokuuta 2011

Blogging


Oh gosh I suck at blogging! I started this one to keep track on sewing projects back in 2009.
Since then, I've finished dozens and dozens of works and started even more. And documented nothing :P

I'm always too keen on doing that I forgot to take pictures or make notes... (or to eat or be social) So it might seem that I just leap from nothing to a finished product.

I am making an 18th century stays at the moment, and because I wanted to know how much time it really takes this time I've actually taken pictures and marked down every minute. That record will follow as I'm hoping to finish the stays today :)

I also hope to present old works every now and then - if I'm not too distracted by the new projects.