perjantai 6. toukokuuta 2011

Mid 18th Century Stays - 16 hours of hard work

I did this mostly because I wanted to know exactly how time consuming it is, and for the hopes of helping to pay the rent on time.

Before, I've just done stays etc, and as the time spans from maybe an hour of sewing every week or so it's been hard to estimate. I also always forget to take work-in-progress photos.
My teachers did very strongly try to advise me to take them, when I only got in my project portfolio one photo of the fabric, and the next photo is the final garment :P Yea, wish sewing was so easy, from fabric magically turned into garment...

16 hours, for regular mid 18th century stays, with no alterations or extra research.
Here's details on where all the time went!


- decorative over layer fabric, polyester 0,45m
- adhesive backing for over layer 0,45m
- middle layer, cotton 0,45m
- under layer, cotton/polyester 0,45m
- sewing thread
- Paper for patterns, 3x A3
- boning, 52 sturdy cable ties
- bias-cut tape, 1,88m
- multiple cups of coffee
(- piece of my finger)

Cost of my supplies (made my own bias tape; the inner layers fabric was a bargain because of slight mis-coloring) 0,45x19,90; 0,45x5,90; 0,45x2,00; 0,45x2,00; 52x0,10; 2.30 for thread
= 20,91

Cost of supplies if new, I don't know how much coutil is in finland, but from online store it was 20dollars/yard - so I suppose 20€ for a meter might be about it.
= 38,25 ... unless silk outer layer is used, 45€~55€


Research not counted as I've done these stays before, but it's usually counted in hours of searching the web, libraries, consulting fellow costumers etc. and also the running in fabric stores isn't counted either - which could also take hours

- Patterns 30min - I just copied most of them from old stays, only had to pattern the shoulder strap

- Ironing& cutting (ironing done during sewing is counted on sewing time; fabrics had already been washed/shrunked so that didn't add up time)
1½ hours

(my iron is reliable relic from the seventies...)

- Machine Sewing 4 hours

- Boning 1h 15min

- Hand Sewing 6½ hours

- Eyelets 2h 10min

Complete time: 15h 55min

I find it hard to ask money for my work, I am always putting myself down and never feeling that I or my works are good enough. I just sold most my old rococo gowns for button money.

Even for counting the same hourly wage as a waitress, this would be 192€+supplies, but sister very strongly noted that though waiting is hard work as well, the required expertee and dedication to this kind of work is in whole another league that should not be paid under 20€/h (which is what truck drivers of few years experience get... figure that)
so I'm shyly counting 20€ hourly fee, 320€ + supplies

("regular" seamstress work like mending and curtain sewing seems to be 20-30€/h, Bridal/atelier seamstresses it is hardly ever under 60€/h)


Oh, and the hazards of profession, I also lost a piece of my finger during the bone cutting... Would have needed a few stitches, but I don't have money to spend on emergency room fees... I'll just deal with the scars.

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